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A.M. Gorky Institute
of World Literature
of the Russian Academy of Sciences

IWL RAS Publishing

A.M. Gorky Institute of World Literature
of the Russian Academy of Sciences

 IWL RAS

Povarskaya 25a, 121069 Moscow, Russia

8-495-690-05-61

edition@imli.ru

iwl.ras.publishing@gmail.com

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  • Classification – name: Literary studies
  • Author: Marina A. Kulichikhina
  • Pages: 532–556
  • Publisher: A.M. Gorky Institute of World Literature of the Russian Academy of Sciences (IWL RAS Publ.)
  • Rights – description: Creative Commons Attribution-NoDerivatives 4.0 (СС BY-ND)
  • Rights – URL: Visit Website
  • Language of the publication: Russian
  • Type of document: Research Article
  • Collection: Artificial Body in the World Intellectual and Artistic Culture
  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.22455/978-5-9208-0719-9-532-556
  • EDN:

    https://elibrary.ru/GISQLR

  • Year of publication: 2023
  • Place of publication: Moscow
  • PDF

  • Kulichikhina, M.A. “Images of Doll / Puppet / Android in Contemporary Fashion: Historic, Cultural and Literary Roots.ˮ Artificial Body in the World Intellectual and Artistic Culture, ex. eds. Andrey V. Golubkov, and Maria A. Shteynman. Moscow, IWL RAS Publ., 2023, pp. 532–556. (In Russian). https://doi.org/10.22455/978-5-9208-0719-9-532-556

Information about the author:

Marina A. Kulichikhina, PhD in Philology, Independent Researcher, Prague, Czech Republic.

ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9822-4621

E-mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Abstract:

The academic interest to fashion has grown during last twenty years that can be explained by the increased presence of fashion in cultural and social context due to booming of Internet mass-media. This article studies historical, cultural, and literary sources of body image of fashion model as a doll, its controversy and ways of playing with, interpreting and overcoming this image in fashion industry and in the art of fashion from 1998 till 2020. For analysis I choose the editorial photoshoot of Paralympic athlete, actress and model Aimee Mullins for Dazed & Confused, editorial photoshoot of Natalia Vodianova with the most influential designers at the turn of 20th–21st century as characters from “Alice in Wonderland”, fashion shows “Barbie” and “Paper Dolls” by Moschino, fashion shows “Cyborg” and “Commedia del arte” Gucci, and also iconic image of designer Karl Lagerfeld and collectible Barbie doll in his image. The research shows that literary motifs, especially those from Romanticism, make an important inspiration source for fashion; the images of doll / marionette / automaton / android is interpreted in different ways, ranging from child’s game till Hoffmann’s and Freudian uncanniness, while fashion is gaining not only its commercial, but also its cultural value, approaching and influencing important social problems such as inclusivity, body image and perception of beauty

  • Keywords: Fashion, Dolls, Model, Romanticism, Body, Body image.

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